On April 4, 2017, the eighth edition of the FAB Talks took place at the unique Ellington Hotel in Berlin. This time, ABURY and AEG teamed up to discuss the topic of caring for your favorite pieces and, in this context, to introduce AEG's Care Label Project.
Before all the guests gathered, there was a tour through the historic and landmarked building of the Ellington Hotel. Particularly impressive was the visit to the wine vault in the basement, which formerly belonged to the Regional Finance Office that was headquartered in the building. Afterwards, Andrea Bury, CEO of ABURY, and Elisabeth Lokai-Fels of AEG welcomed the guests and introduced the Care Label Project as well as the connection between AEG and ABURY.
The Care Label Project was launched to draw attention to the dramatic impact of outdated care rituals. 90% of clothing items are disposed of too soon, a piece of clothing is worn on average only 7 times, and the consumer is responsible for 50% of a garment's ecological footprint. Care labels are outdated and not adapted to new technologies, and many people find conventional labels confusing. For this reason, AEG introduced the “Don’t Overwash” label, which updates old care habits in three categories: the frequency of washing, washing at high temperatures, and the stress of dry cleaning.
To revolutionize garment care, AEG teamed up with 14 young brands that tested the “Care Label.” Two of them are ABURY and Tim Labenda, who was to give the first lecture of the evening, followed by Ingrid Omen from Woolmark and Michael Wolf from AEG:
1. TIM LABENDA, DESIGNER
Tim Labenda is a brand that stands for natural materials and high quality. For this reason, Tim Labenda’s garments must be cared for, and many people assume that you cannot simply “throw these pieces into the machine.” Through the collaboration with AEG, however, Tim Labenda was convinced of the opposite.
For many designers, conventional care labels are a safeguard against customers complaining if they treat their pieces incorrectly. That is why many manufacturers label their clothing with “dry clean only,” even though this may not be strictly necessary and, above all, is harmful to the environment. However, once the customer knows how delicate materials like wool are constructed and how to care for them properly—for example, that there is a wool wash program that washes better than hand washing—it only benefits the manufacturer: customers are less skeptical about wearing and buying materials that seem complicated, and they break away from outdated care habits passed down to them by their parents or grandparents.
Tim’s advice to us: Do not be confused by old labels and dare to wash things in the washing machine.
2. INGRID OMEN, WOOLMARK COMPANY
Woolmark is a specialist in wool. Brands that have been awarded the Woolmark certificate can assure that their garments are made of high-quality, natural wool that is biodegradable. AEG and Woolmark have been long-standing partners, and AEG washing machines and dryers also bear the Woolmark seal, which means that wool can be washed and dried without any problems and without being damaged.
According to Ingrid Omen, there are a large number of people who do not dare to buy wool products because they do not know how to care for them. The outdated assumption that wool can only be washed by hand or must be taken to the dry cleaner is still widespread. However, in the late 1960s, Woolmark developed techniques by which a washing machine mimics the hand-washing process. Consequently, in some appliances, including those from AEG, one can effectively “hand wash.”
To conclude, Ingrid gave another interesting food for thought. Due to the chemical structure of wool fibers, the material develops odors much more slowly and therefore does not need to be washed as often. Instead, you can simply hang a wool product out in the fresh air or treat it with steam. The slogan “Don’t Overwash” is therefore very appropriate, especially in connection with wool.
3. MICHAEL WOLF, AEG
As a product manager at AEG, Michael Wolf is the one with the technical know-how and introduced us to an AEG washing machine and tumble dryer, which he affectionately referred to as “care appliances.”
In the past, washing machines could not care for certain products, which is why they had to carry the “hand wash” care label. The hand-wash symbol on AEG’s washing machines and dryers, however, signals that exactly these products can also be machine washed and dried. This includes, for example, wool products, but also products made of silk or down. The Woolmark seal also ensures that the wool will not shrink. The secret behind the tumble dryer is that the drum rotates faster, which presses the laundry against the drum. The garments therefore dry as if they were lying flat, only the process is much faster due to the rapid rotation and the airflow.
Michael Wolf recommends that when washing wool, you should not only ensure that a machine with a wool wash program and, ideally, a “hand wash” program is used, but also that a wool detergent is used. Regular detergents contain enzymes that can attack the wool fibers.
As an alternative to washing, there is the possibility of the steam program, and with this, Michael Wolf brought the focus back to the “Don’t Overwash” label. Many people know the situation where laundry piles up that has been worn and therefore cannot be hung back in the closet, but at the same time is not dirty enough to warrant washing. The steam program is suitable for these clothes: the machine generates steam and moves the laundry in alternating directions so that it only becomes slightly damp, but odors disappear and it is fresh again. At the same time, this program naturally contributes to sustainability, as little energy and water are consumed. The steam program is also well suited for coats or blazers.
Finally, Michael shared his view on the Care Label Project: The project not only educates the consumer on what is possible and how they can better care for their favorite pieces, but it also shows how to get the most out of your care appliances. Because if you invest money in an expensive washing machine or tumble dryer, you do not want to also spend money on dry cleaning and take time for hand washing.
At the end, there was an interactive Q&A session in which ambiguities regarding the steam program, washing down, and wool shrinkage were clarified. Interestingly, the shrinking of wool has nothing to do with the spin cycle, but with the movement during the washing process. Pressure, water, and the movement of the wool fibers can cause them to felt and shrink, which is avoided with a wool wash program.
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