The second round of FABTalks took place at the Moroccan Embassy. Andrea Kolb, CEO of ABURY, and Sebastian Paas, Partner at KPMG and Head of the Fashion segment, briefly welcomed the guests before each of the attendees introduced themselves.
The exhibition "Portraid," an initiative by the ABURY Foundation and photographer Thomas Rusch, was on display at the embassy. Following the discussion round at the end, the photographer gave a personal tour of the exhibition. On display are emotional portraits of Moroccan artisans suffering from cataracts. This eye disease can lead to blindness, but it can also be treated with a simple operation. Purchasing a portrait enables the person depicted to receive the surgery. This allows them to continue practicing their craft and supporting their families, as well as keeping the country’s special traditions and culture alive and passing on their artistic skills.
TALK 1: FRIEDERIKE VON WEDEL INTRODUCED THE MASTER'S DEGREE PROGRAM "SUSTAINABILITY IN FASHION" AT THE ESMOD FASHION SCHOOL FOUR YEARS AGO.
She explained the general problems regarding sustainability in the fashion industry and provided food for thought on possible approaches to solutions.
1. The isolated consumer:
The consumer cannot bear the responsibility for the complex issue of sustainability alone.
2. The system must be changed
The current "fast fashion" system describes the incredibly fast cycles of producing 12 collections in just one year. It is already considered the norm for collections to be designed and produced in different countries.
3. Fashion industry responsible for half of global water pollution
The current "take-make-waste" system produces gigantic amounts of waste. With over 20,000 chemicals used in the clothing industry, the fashion sector is the industry with the highest chemical consumption worldwide.
Wish: A new system in which beauty, quality, culture, and innovation are combined.
Already during the design phase, one should consider what happens to the product at the end and whether it is recyclable, etc. Technical and biological cycles should make it possible for materials to be reused. For example, cotton is compostable in terms of its base fiber, but after processing, this is no longer possible due to the high use of chemicals.
TALK 2: CARMEN GRÄBSCH, SUSTAINABILITY EXPERT AT KPMG, GAVE US AN EXCITING INSIGHT INTO A RATHER DRY TOPIC – SUSTAINABILITY REPORTING.
1. Report content and materiality
Responsibility and seriousness play a major role here.
2. Inclusion of stakeholders and sustainability context
3. Report quality
The data must be comparable, reliable, current, and clear. Balance is also particularly important here. Especially in the textile industry, no one expects there to be no flaws or no need for improvement.
4. There is guidance specifically for the textile industry on how to report. There are additional indicators that address social guidelines and material usage.
5. The icing on the cake of a good sustainability report
At KPMG, the audit of the report is of particular importance. This can increase external credibility and create internal advantages, as management can make better management decisions based on better data.
6. Current state of sustainability reporting
In Germany, there is currently no reporting obligation, but this will change with the new EU guidelines from 2017. Companies with more than 500 employees that are listed on the stock exchange will then be required to report on their sustainability commitments.
Sustainability reporting counts as an important aspect of brand building that should be utilized. Above all, it should not only be understood as risk management but also as an opportunity to differentiate oneself and generate competitive advantages.
GRI, the Global Reporting Initiative, provides principles according to which one can orient one’s sustainability reporting.
TALK 3: ANNE BÜRGER HAS BEEN TRAVELING THE WORLD FOR TWO YEARS TO COLLECT AS MUCH INFORMATION AS POSSIBLE FOR HER DOCUMENTARY FILM ON THE TOPIC OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION.
Her goal is to make a film that celebrates ethical fashion and shows how important and beautiful it is.
Many small labels are already working sustainably. They use fabric scraps from big brands, process vintage clothing, or simply use local products. However, it is often difficult for designers to make a profit from such a business. The problem is that the market is not yet open enough for this, and there is a lack of clear communication with the consumer.
Many consumers are often deterred by the price of sustainable fashion, which is why they should be made more aware of alternatives such as second-hand fashion, clothing swaps, or renting clothes.
The film is intended to serve exactly that purpose: to create awareness among consumers for the importance of ethical fashion.
DISCUSSION
Once again, we had a really great and, above all, lively discussion – a big THANK YOU to everyone for that! One thing was clear to everyone: awareness among customers still really needs to be created. This also includes education about the price-performance ratio. Furthermore, customers must become more conscious of their styling so that only what they will actually wear is bought. Reference was made to the internet platform "Fitbay," which helps consumers use an avatar to try out what looks good on them in order to avoid bad purchases.
Through "storytelling," awareness for sustainable fashion can be spread, especially via social media.
The question arises whether a ban on advertising, for example at H&M, would change anything? Just as cigarette consumption was curbed that way? It is pointed out that the labels on cigarette packs, labeled with the effects of smoking, have a strong effect on consumers. This could also be transferred to clothing labels to point out the potential damage caused by cheap clothing or those who produce it.
This led to the question of which consumers one actually wants to reach? The long-term goal is, of course, for everyone to become conscious of sustainable fashion. It was pointed out that too few leading figures are really making it clear that sustainability is attractive. One could perhaps exert influence here, especially by involving bloggers, who currently determine trendsetting in the fashion world.
Many companies have already started to improve things. Customers must be shown that a complete transformation takes time and can only be implemented with their help. At the end of the evening, everyone agrees: the benefits of sustainable fashion must be better communicated in order to raise greater awareness among consumers.
THANK YOU FOR BEING THERE!!!!
And a big thank you also to our partners Collonil and Dr. Hauschka for the goody bags!!
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