The idea behind the initiators KPMG and ABURY is to combine refreshing fashion talks in an inspiring environment with business networking in an innovative way in order to stimulate exciting discussions on the subject of Fashion Business in Berlin . The vision is to build an interdisciplinary network and, in the long term, to initiate and implement projects together.
On July 8, 2016, the FAB Talks entered their sixth round at the unique Das Stue Hotel in Berlin. Before all the guests gathered, there was a guided tour through the impressive rooms of the design hotel. Afterwards, Andrea Bury, CEO of ABURY, as well as Hacer Bilgic and Cindy Frank from KPMG, welcomed the guests under the open sky. It was already clear from the speeches that there would not only be an impulsive presentation, but that all those present would be interactively involved in a workshop.
The evening was themed "Berlin Fashion Scene – The 10-Point Plan." After Tanja Mühlhans from the Berlin Senate requested concrete points for improved support of the Berlin fashion scene at the last FAB Talks, the goal of these FAB Talks was to jointly develop theses that could then be presented to the Senate.
The topic was introduced by an exciting presentation on "Rebranding Berlin Fashion" by Marte Hentschel from Sourcebook and Georg Andreas Suhr, whom Andrea described as a professor, designer, label owner, consultant, and, in short, an "all-round talent."
Rebranding Berlin Fashion
Marte Hentschel and Georg Andreas Suhr
The central question of the presentation by Marte Hentschel and Georg Andreas Suhr, under the heading "Rebranding Berlin Fashion," revolved around how the Berlin textile and fashion industry can be transformed. The ideas for this were divided into four different topic areas:
1. REBRANDING FASHION WEEK
The image that Berlin built up 10 years ago—"the wild, the gray, the avant-garde"—no longer works today. Berlin is failing in competition with other fashion capitals such as Paris, Milan, or London. There are not many large, conventional fashion labels, so the attempt to position itself like other metropolises is counterproductive and promotes the loss of the potential that the capital has.
Marte Hentschel and Georg Andreas Suhr see Berlin as a hub for sustainable fashion and strengthen the idea of concentrating on a niche: sustainability & technological innovations should be the focus. This image is also perceived from the outside, at international fashion weeks as well as in international media.
Furthermore, Hentschel and Suhr's ideas consist of integrating a business marketplace: this includes B2B matchmakings, conferences, pitch platforms for the development of viable business models, and, overall, an opportunity for exchange for all participants in the value chain.
As a final point, the two mentioned the keyword "democratization of Fashion Week" and, in this context, the potential to draw inspiration from other industries. The Berlinale, for example, manages to be an elite format while still being accessible to the general public. Individual events at Fashion Week should also not be aimed solely at a closed society. Fashion should appear as a socio-cultural asset.
2. SHARING IS CARING
Berlin consists of a prospering start-up community, and every year there are over 1,000 graduates from fashion-related degree programs from 10 universities and schools who, alongside numerous talents moving from abroad, find themselves in a competitive job market. Due to the lack of jobs in the industry, many of them become self-employed and start from scratch; many of them fail after a very short time because innovation and design quality suffer under the pressure of competition. Trade secrets are considered normal, especially in the fashion industry, and contacts are not shared.
Hentschel and Suhr propose a culture of exchange that builds on the passing on of experience. The resources are there, but they must be used for networking co-creation formats, copyright agencies, producer galleries, and design collectives. The beginning has already been made in Berlin with pop-up shops and co-working spaces, but the fashion industry needs more complex and longer-term formats that are politically desired and supported.
3. OPEN SOURCE PLATFORM
In another part of the presentation, Hentschel and Suhr highlighted how important it is to make contacts and resources for information, studies, toolkits, contacts, and publications available to founders and start-ups so that they can build on the findings of others. This would also create interdisciplinary exchange and transparency.
4. INCUBATOR PROGRAM
Last but not least, Hentschel and Suhr called for a holistic, multi-year incubator format that culminates in industry cooperation and links the young start-up scene with established and experienced companies. The aim is to combine potential. The goals are market readiness and the professionalization of young talent through a four-stage program:
- Fashion Start-Up Camp for the development and presentation of business cases
- Skills workshops in the areas of cutting, fit, processing, and sales
- Mentorship program by experts on the topics of sourcing, manufacturing, sales, marketing, finance, and internationalization
- Platform for establishing industrial cooperation with German fashion houses and e-commerce players
Good examples of fashion incubators are CFE and Fashion Enter in London as well as Manufacture in New York.
WORKSHOP
After Marte Hentschel and Georg Andreas Suhr's presentation, the ball was passed to the rest of the guests. In four groups, various topics were to be discussed through concentrated potential and expertise, and theses were to be developed for the promotion of the Berlin fashion industry. Andrea introduced the four topic blocks and the associated questions:
- Trade fair promotion: What do we want to stand for as the Berlin fashion scene? What concepts can be developed so that the positioning prevails?
- Business start-up: How can young designers be helped? How can you successfully start in the market as a young designer or young start-up?
- Growth promotion: How does an existing company or label take the next step?
- Networks: How can you join forces to do intelligent sourcing? How can corporate cooperation be promoted?
The atmosphere in the individual working groups was characterized by passion and emotions, by well-founded knowledge, and innovative flashes of genius. And the result was not just many full post-its…
TRADE FAIR PROMOTION:
Some points from Marte Hentschel and Georg Andreas Suhr's presentation were taken up again here; the suggestions were summarized as follows:
During Fashion Week, points of intersection between art, architecture, photography, and lifestyle should be created and cooperation encouraged. The connection could be used for, among other things, fashion shows, events, and galleries. Instead of an event like the Fashion Film Festival taking place four weeks before Fashion Week, the events could be linked.
The Berlin Fashion Week should receive stronger international support and also be represented by the Berlin Salon at other fashion weeks across Europe and worldwide. Although a support initiative already exists, it should be expanded to promote a wider variety of labels.
In addition, the timing of the Berlin Fashion Week should be rethought. This year, Fashion Week was timed between other major fashion weeks, so many buyers did not manage to come to Berlin. Exhibitors have no say in the scheduling. This is a problem that can be addressed: the scheduling of Berlin Fashion Week should be made more flexible and transparent.
BUSINESS START-UP:
An important point on which not only the corresponding team but also the rest of the guests agreed referred to the need for the centralization of information and resources. The results of internet research already provide a lot of information about possible funding, but young labels want a central point of contact that shows all information in the fashion sector and possibly also in the creative industry sector. Furthermore, an interactive format would be useful through which help for starting a business is offered to interested parties in an efficient and scalable way.
In addition, the group around Julia Ortlib presented the problem of missing coaching and mentoring programs. The needs of designers require affordable, industry-specific consulting services in specific subject areas, such as corporate management or sales.
Following this, it was emphasized that a bringing together of young designers and established brands would result in a valuable added value for both parties; young labels can learn from the experiences of existing companies, while new innovative ideas and methods from newcomers can give large companies valuable modern influences. This exchange must be encouraged.
Growth promotion:
Long-term planning is often not possible for existing companies and designers because the budgets are only sufficient for one year. Long-term planning is important and should be encouraged.
What many labels lack to develop their business is the simple procurement of liquid funds. Additional costs, such as risk premiums or guarantee costs, prevent labels from presenting and producing. The promotion of interim financing should be considered.
Another point mentioned is support for multimedia platforms on which labels can present and sell themselves. By expanding to desktop and mobile versions, applications, etc., multi-channel distribution should be promoted. The Senate could play a major role in the development and financing of such a distribution platform.
The political interests of the Senate differ from the interests of fashion companies—therefore, promoting the exchange between different companies would make sense. A kind of "round-table B2B" from the Senate could ensure an exchange between companies as well as an interdisciplinary exchange, and at the same time, the Senate can write success stories from it as the initiator of this interface.
Networks:
The last topic area linked thematically to the previously mentioned points and summarized many ideas. The conclusion was that industry participants from all areas encounter similar problems. One solution is to bring the areas together through a digital industry network. A specific platform is needed for Berlin, which functions not only as a mapping of existing companies but as a project platform. The start of such a platform in Berlin can serve as a springboard for national expansion. New cooperation formats are important. This implies a kind of think tank for an interdisciplinary, academic, as well as institutional exchange of all participants in the fashion industry.
In addition, a useful extension to a broad digital network would be a smaller, accessible format that promotes the short-term exchange of market participants in Berlin on an online and offline level. The example of the European Film Market was mentioned here again as an inspiration.
THE NEXT STEPS…
After an interesting and emotional discussion, the evening was rounded off by a short summary by Andrea Bury. Based on the ideas collected, ABURY and KPMG will jointly summarize the most important points and present them to the Senate. Concrete formulations are important that motivate the Senate and do not attack it, while at the same time highlighting the advantages for all parties involved. The merger of young fashion labels with a strong economic partner strengthens our influence. We will, of course, keep you updated on further developments!
Thank you for coming!
SEE YOU NEXT TIME!
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