The idea of the initiators, KPMG and ABURY, is to combine refreshing fashion talks in an inspiring setting with business networking in an innovative way, in order to spark exciting and necessary discussions on the topic of the "fashion business in Berlin." The vision is to build an interdisciplinary network and, in the long term, to initiate and implement projects together.
The third FABTalks took place at the Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin. This time, we broke a few "FAB rules" by securing Andreas Tölke as a charming, but above all competent, moderator for the evening. Andreas Tölke is an art and design journalist based in Berlin. His countless features and interviews with international icons of the art and design scene, such as Jean-Paul Gaultier, Jeff Koons, and Zaha Hadid, are published in many international magazines. So, this time, there were no lectures, but entertaining interviews! On stage were Bettina Güldner, a curator at the Bauhaus-Archiv, as well as Pamela Samasuwo-Nyawiri and Samuel Mason – the winners of the ABURY Design Experience 2015.
Following the session, there was a personal tour through the Bauhaus-Archiv and the special exhibition "Dialogues: Photographs" by Hélène Binet. Afterwards, everyone went together to watch the final fashion show of the Lette-Verein next door.
TALK 1: BETTINA GÜLDNER WITH ANDREAS TÖLKE
Bettina Güldner is a curator at the Bauhaus-Archiv and also the curator of her own gallery, which focuses, among other things, on GDR design. A wonderfully witty, entertaining, and educational discussion unfolded between her and Andreas Tölke, touching on the history of the Bauhaus-Archiv, a bit of GDR art, and the role of fashion in the Bauhaus. Here are a few excerpts from the intense conversation.
Is clothing art or rather a utilitarian object?
Clothing creates a state that inspires one to consider how colors and forms can become a unity. Thus, design is also a creative task where one constantly realizes that it is not just about art being produced or worn, but that the train of thought brings me very close to the artistic considerations.
On the history of the Bauhaus-Archiv and how it handled textiles beyond carpets.
The Bauhaus was a design school where artisans were trained artistically to a very high standard. It corresponded to the requirements of the director, Walter Gropius, that the individual should remain removed from the development of the work. The artist was to neutralize themselves in the process. Everything that served as a driving force for one's own actions was to be pushed aside and not reflected in the artwork. Thus, objectivity stood in opposition to subjectivity. Some teachers broke with these principles, such as Kurt Schwitters (who created costumes for DADA operas, for example), who did not join a decided group but incorporated individual connotations and a subjective stance into his art. The Bauhaus, however, did not want to make subjectivity a topic.
The weaving and textile industries classes were the typical women's classes at the school because, for other categories such as metal, wood, and architecture, it was said that they were too weak. Yet, even though it was their area, the women did not dare to try something new with the textiles. The only dress that stood out was created by Liz Vogler. She was one of the few weavers who had dared to take a risk and think for herself about new patterns or cuts.
TALK 2: PAMELA SAMASUWO-NYAWIRI AND SAMUEL MASON WITH ANDREAS TÖLKE
Samuel and Pam are the winners of the ABURY Design Experience 2015 (international designer contest). Pam comes from Zimbabwe but lives with her family in the UK, where Sam also comes from. Both were at Berlin Fashion Week for the first time. Here, it was particularly exciting to learn how much the topic of art influences and inspires young international fashion designers in the design of their collections.
Impressions of Berlin Fashion Week
Both designers were particularly impressed by the "Designer for Tomorrow" show, the talent of the designers, and the high level of the collections.
Fashion and Art
Pam and Sam agree that art and fashion belong together. Both of their universities include the word "art" in their names—meaning that even in the curriculum, art and fashion design are positioned very closely together. Sam emphasizes that at the Royal College of Art in London, exchange and collaboration among students are encouraged and welcomed. Art is now no longer understood as just a static work, but sometimes also as fashion. More and more consumers see it that way too. From collaborations between luxury brands and limited artist editions to handmade little works of art by traditional artisans – the field is broad.
The question of whether one can separate art and fashion was denied by both. In their opinion, one cannot and should not set a clear dividing line, since art and fashion are connected. The exchange between them is so important to gather another perspective and more inspiration. Both designers and artists face difficulties in their respective industries, so it is not surprising that more and more artists and designers are working together.
Sustainability thoughts in the fashion industry
At the end, the discussion briefly shifted toward fast fashion and sustainability. Both are of the opinion that fast fashion will continue to dominate the industry for now, but that the younger generation is increasingly grappling with the negative impacts of fast fashion and is growing up with a stronger sense of sustainability.
Unfortunately, due to the short time we had available at the Bauhaus-Archiv, the discussion turned out short this time!
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