The idea behind the FAB Talks is to combine refreshing fashion talks in an inspiring environment with business networking in an innovative way, in order to stimulate exciting discussions on the subject of fashion and have open questions clarified by experts. The vision is to build an interdisciplinary network and, in the long term, to initiate and implement projects together.
On December 3, 2018, a new round of FABtalks was due, and once again it headed to a new city in Germany. In the historic Kasenmattensaal of the Eventgewölbe, we brought an exciting topic to Dresden: Care Labels – with the guiding question “How much care is behind the symbols?”. The evening was introduced with some information about the location by Clemens Lutz. Subsequently, Andrea Bury presented the concept behind the FABTalks and the ABURY Collection.
Before the first lecture began, the guests were treated to a musical interlude by “Ju von Dölzschen”
Sustainable fashion and the Care Label Project
Elisabeth Lokai-Fels, press spokesperson for AEG, introduced the guests to the evening's topic. Since many people are still confused by old laundry myths and outdated wash symbols, knowing how to properly care for new clothes after purchase is essential. But even though there are now outdoor, wool, and silk programs, etc., many consumers still wash by hand instead of trusting their washing machine. So, how do you ensure that your favorite piece lasts as long as possible and that laundry is cared for more sustainably?
This question was linked by ABURY to AEG's Care Label Project: Care labels are sometimes up to 60 years old and often lead to misunderstandings. Due to misinformation on the labels (which are not adapted to today's technological progress in washing machines and dryers), garments are often not cared for correctly. The Care Label Project aims to educate people about exactly this and has joined forces with 14 designers and labels (including ABURY) to revolutionize laundry care and instill new washing habits. With the introduced "Don’t Overwash" care label, the core message is to clarify that the "more is more" mentality no longer applies today.
Some parts of the Don’t Overwash project are reflected in Tim Labenda’s collection. He presented this, as well as further information about the project, himself.
Summary of the key points from the lectures:
TIM LABENDA, DESIGNER
Tim Labenda is a designer for a fashion label in Berlin that specializes in old craftsmanship techniques and the preservation of manufacturing traditions. He is also one of the designers belonging to the Care Label Projects. His collections primarily stand for calmness, maturity, and the classic. They are intended to provide women who are firmly grounded in life with the right, timeless outfit. For Labenda, one of the most important criteria is: Clothing should last a long time and not look unwearable or outdated after one season. What also distinguishes Tim's designs is the constant use of artisanal production and wool.
Because of this, WoolMark noticed him one day and the collaboration began. WoolMark offers high-quality, certified wool from New Zealand, which Mr. Labenda has used in all his collections ever since.
After years of cooperation, Woolmark approached Tim again and offered him the opportunity to participate in the International Woolmark Prize. This award is about working with wool in a particularly sustainable and creative way. By working with weavers in Italy to create faux fur made of wool, Tim Labenda won the prize, which brought him into contact with AEG, as they also cooperate with WoolMark.
Subsequently, he was offered the chance to have his most expensive and elaborate wool pieces professionally cleaned by AEG. After two weeks, one of the dresses returned; it had been washed so gently that Mr. Labenda only realized it had actually been cleaned and dried after a closer inspection. Incorrect washing would have likely made this much more obvious, as wool fibers are often pulled and twisted, causing them to lose some of their natural properties.The cooperation led to new care labels such as "Don’t overwash!". This is intended to encourage consumers to consider whether a garment really needs to be washed again before doing so. Especially with very expensive clothing, one should not "overwash," as the high-quality materials used in production are not designed for weekly washing but require special care.
However, every consumer should think about whether their clothes really need cleaning before washing. Because the sustainable chain initiated by the manufacturer must be continued by the consumer. One should save water and energy, as this benefits the environment in addition to the garment itself.
MICHAEL WOLF, AEG LAUNDRY EXPERT
Michael Wolf is a product manager for washing appliances at AEG and an expert in the field of "garment care." This begins with the correct interpretation of care labels: Many consumers are not even aware, for example, that a tub symbol with two lines means that you should use a delicate or wool program at most.
The hand wash symbol, on the other hand, is known to many, but it hides the first classic laundry myth: a hand wash symbol does not mean that a garment does not belong in the washing machine. In fact, hand washing and the friction of clothing can cause textiles like wool to felt and become damaged. Many modern washing machines have a hand wash program that washes the laundry very gently. Mr. Wolf explicitly recommends using the machine's hand wash and wool oscillation settings, as otherwise, you risk felting your beloved wool pieces.
He continued with the dryer symbol. A symbol with one dot means it can be dried at a low temperature. Squares always mean: suitable for the dryer. If a circle appears in the symbols, these are materials that should preferably be dry-cleaned. However, due to the chemicals used, dry cleaning is the worst option for the environment.
To avoid dry cleaning, you can, for example, use the steam wash programs on AEG washing machines and clean your suit trousers or similar items within 20 minutes. In addition to the correct way of washing, you can also hang your clothes out in the fresh air and thus save energy. If you do end up washing your wool pieces and drying them afterwards, you can use special dryer programs on new AEG dryers. This allows the machine's rotations to be adjusted more precisely to dry the laundry as gently as possible. This is called: Absolute Care System.
Even if garments with a protective, water-repellent layer become brittle after repeated washing, the creases can be closed again by even heat. An iron achieves the same results.
In conclusion, Mr. Wolf emphasizes that the consumer should always consider whether the garment really needs to be washed again. Especially clothes like jeans can last a long time without washing.
Q&A Session:
- Can you put blazers in the washing machine?
Blazers must be dry-cleaned, as they are often decorated by hand and made with glue or similar aids. The glue could come loose in a normal washing machine. Similarly, shirts must be washed carefully, otherwise the shirt collar will lose its shape. The steam program of the AEG machines would not be a problem, however, as this does not completely soak the garments.
- How do I prevent pilling on my cotton sweater?
There are detergents that use cellulases to ensure that the protruding fibers are “eaten away.” However, these are never dosed highly enough to stop pilling completely. According to Mr. Wolf, it is more due to the resulting friction and the washing program.
A guest suggests using a fabric shaver. Its usefulness, however, depends on the fiber length.
- A question about the increasing selection of detergents; do you need so many?
Even though the shelf gets bigger and more colorful, according to Mr. Wolf, three different detergents are sufficient;
Heavy-duty detergent is very good for light-colored laundry due to the bleach it contains, which should definitely be washed separately. Of course, a color detergent that contains no bleach also belongs there. If you wash wool more often, then you only need a wool detergent.
- Does a wedding dress belong in the washing machine?
Without having seen the dress, it is difficult to give an expert opinion. It depends on how well the dress is crafted and how gently the washing machine washes. The fabric itself can withstand the wash.
We thank our partners AEG & Dr. Hauschka!
SEE YOU NEXT TIME!
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