Essaouira, the laid-back coastal town on Morocco's breezy Atlantic coast in the province of Essaouira, feels less hectic than nearby Marrakesh. Its compact medina is easy to navigate. To truly understand Essaouira's culture beyond its main attractions, it's important to get in touch with the Swiris - the locals. Here are some great ways to meet them:
1. Chat over a Cup of Tea
Socialising in Morocco often revolves around a cup of hot, sweet mint tea. Visit the cosy café Chez Miloud on Avenue Istiqlal (also called Haddada) in the afternoon. Enjoy freshly made msmen (crispy flatbread served with cheese or honey) and harira (a hearty vegetarian soup). The café attracts local traders and youth groups, all enjoying tea and Egyptian film soundtracks.
2. Discover Art at the Flea Market
On Sundays, two different markets come to life. The Joutiya flea market, just outside the medina near Bab Doukkala, is a must-see. It's a treasure trove of curiosities and a chance to meet local artists, who often use found objects and driftwood to create imaginative pieces. Don't miss the studios of artists Baki and Asmah.
3. Experience Rural Life
An early start is needed to visit the Had Draa market, some 30km from Essaouira's old town. Accessible by local bus or shared taxi, this market offers no tourist souvenirs, just fresh produce, spices, livestock auctions and handmade baskets. A highlight is the traditional Berber barber, who works in a tent and offers a real insight into rural life.
4. Dine with a Moroccan Family
The best Moroccan dishes often come from the home kitchen. For a truly authentic culinary experience, join a cooking class in "Khadija's Kitchen". Khadija prepares traditional tajines and couscous, but is also open to experimental dishes such as gluten-free meals. Guests often dine with her family, including her husband Hussein and son Yassine.
5. Enjoy Spectacular Sunsets
No visit to Essaouira is complete without a sunset at the Skala de la Kasbah. This historic fortress, which once protected the town from the sea and invaders, is a popular meeting place for locals and one of Essaouira's most iconic landmarks. Its unique acoustics attract street musicians, and the views of the Atlantic and ancient bronze cannons make for an unforgettable experience.
While Essaouira offers many attractions, its true charm lies in the warm hospitality of its people. Take advantage of these opportunities and you'll not only make friends, but also gain a deep understanding of the culture and lifestyle of this enchanting town.
© All photos via Lynn Sheppard
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